The long road trip continues…
Day 11 Half way to Vegas, so it must be time for slots!
We awoke around 5.30am, could see no early morning wildlife around Lake Crescent, so packed, checked out and headed for Port Angeles to find breakfast. We stopped at Joshua’s, the car park was full of pick-ups, usually a good sign. However this was for some sort of meeting, not a mass approval of the fare on offer! Luckily it was fine and less than half the cost at the Lodge.
We then drove up Hurricane Ridge Road to an elevation of around 5,700 ft for a great view of……………nothing but 10 feet in front of us in the fog, snow and below zero temperatures at the top.
Drove back down, but the weather was not kind for good views over the Strait of Juan de Fuca (no sniggering at the back!), or of the mountains. Then back on the 101 and a quick divert to Dungeness National Wildlife Refuge and Dungeness Spit. The spit is 5 miles in length, but after about the first half mile, and due consideration of a combination of poor choice of attire on MrSlotNoodles’s part, a stiff sea breeze and no sign of any harbour seals or any birds but gulls, we turned and headed back.
Back into the car and the heavens opened as we drove past Sequim and onto the Wa20 to the Quimper Peninsular to Port Townsend where the rain abated.
We originally planned to stay in Port Townsend, but ferry cancellations next day would not be helpful for our journey on to the San Juan Islands, so we decided on Anacortes for an overnight.
We had a reservation on the 4.30 pm Port Townsend to Coupeville (Whidbey Island) ferry, but we managed to sneak onto the 12.45pm one.
A 30 minute crossing later and we on Whidbey island. Then north on the 20, past Coupeville which is some distance north of the port, watched a few F16’s (I think) fly low across us as we drove past the Oak Harbor Naval air base and then stopped at Deception Pass.
Then continued north to Anacortes for our overnight. We had passed a large number of NA Casinos, more than we remember from our last visit this way, and when I learnt that one had just opened a new hotel in April…….well it would have been rude not to!…………and they have cheap gas!……. and it looked nice……..and free coffee……..and free wi-fi…. and…..!! We had a great time and the full results will be the subject of another blog 🙂
Day 12 Voyage to the San Juans, ‘wot, no whales?’
We left the Swinomish casino and lodge having fought an honourable draw after a late comeback on the ‘Puppy Stampede’ slot with a $168 hit.
We drove the 8 miles to Anacortes ferry terminal and caught the 08.30am ferry to Friday Harbor on San Juan Island, which is an international sailing which goes on to Sydney, Canada (Vancouver Island).
The voyage took an hour and is a dedicated Washington Scenic Byway, justifiably so.
We drove off the ferry and decided, given the clear weather today and rain and wind for tomorrow, to book an extra whale watching trip with western Prince, to leave at 12 noon. Then we checked in to our hotel and walked back down to town grabbed a pizza each from the Chinese restaurant and were ready for 11.45 boarding.
The trip was very enjoyable, gorgeous scenery, and we saw eagles, Stellar Sea-lions, Harbour seals and Harbour Porpoises but no Orcas. The resident pods were not currently in residence, must be a rent or lease dispute or just the price of fish. So we were looking for Transient whales, who do not travel in large pods, hunt seals and are harder to find.
After three and a half hours we returned to port (no boats saw whales that day or for the previous 4 days) and had a early meal at the Cask and Schooner, Lamb burger and Shepherds Pie, then returned to our hotel for the evening.
Day 13 Captain Jim and the search for Orca
We awoke, early as usual, took the comp hotel breakfast and headed out to explore some of San Juan Island before our booked Orca trip at 12 noon. We drove down to the southern tip of the Island in windy drizzle, and when we could go no further, drove back stopping at each location.
First up was Cattle Point, where we thought we saw an Orca, but it was a porpoise on closer inspection through the binoculars, but no pictures as it was soon gone. A couple of Bald Eagles were using the wind to swoop over the bay and look for food.
We then stopped at south beach, but no red foxes or other animals on view, then drove on to the National Park Service American Camp site (more on this later), a pretty bleak and windswept location from the 1850’s Pig War.
San Juan island is about 15 miles long by 6 miles wide so it really does not take too long to get anywhere. We then headed north and after a quick look at False Bay, we pulled into Lime Kiln Point State Park, which is the only dedicated whale watching park in the US. We spent a couple of hours on the trails, watching a harbour seal and various birds but no whales in the Haro Strait.
That’s me all wrapped up 😉
We then headed for our trip, which was booked with Maya’s Western Charters which has good reviews. Capt. Jim Maya, who owns the Peregrine which takes six passengers max, was on hand and unfortunately our trip was cancelled, seas too heavy and no whales. His 3 pm trip was full, but as consolation he said if he saw whales on the 3pm trip he would ring us and take us out later. It’s a cash on delivery trip so we said ok and set off for some more exploration.
We continued north on West Side Road to English Camp NPS site. As I said earlier, this location dates back to a territorial dispute between Britain and the US over ownership of the San Juan Island, which reached a head over the killing of a pig (I kid you not!) in 1859, and resulted in armed garrisons being established by each nation. The US barracks on the south of the island were spartan, but us Brits, as the Dick van Dyke in ‘Mary Poppins’ style narration of the film in the visitors center would say……..
‘Cor Blimey me old china, us Brits know how to fight a war! Whilst those Yanks are freezing their ‘Alberts’ off down south, we are just sat here on our ‘arris’ whiling away the day, or enjoying tea dances, parties, gardening, or time in the ‘rub-a-dub-dub’….luvlee!’
After MrSlotNoodles told the lady in the office that Kaiser Wilhelm 1st got it wrong in 1871, (arbitrated in favour of US) and she should ‘get off his land’ , which she did not seem to appreciate, we moved on, due to lack of reinforcements, to Roche Harbor. Very nice, and very quaint, owned by the company that once made all the Lime on the islands. We had a quick lunch, then drove around the rest of the island, then headed back to Lime Kiln Point.
We asked at the information centre about Orcas, and the lady there said that they had been spotted off Victoria BC, and were headed this way so two hours maybe. We spent two hours with more birds, seals and waves, asked again and got the same answer!
So, about 5pm, we headed back to our hotel, thinking our chance was over. We had not been back 5 minutes when the phone rang, it was Capt. Jim. No, not Klingons, but Orcas, he had followed them in and we could go out at 6pm.
We drove to Snug Harbor, joined three others and set off on our sailing. It was fantastic!………….. We saw J Pod, the residents were back after their Canada vacation, and whilst they are a challenge to photograph (very sneaky, they swim fast and are good at appearing behind you!) from a small boat, we saw seven different individuals, some interesting weather, a Peregrine Falcon, lots of other birds and really enjoyed Jim’s wit and knowledge.
We got back to port just before 9pm, and returned back to our hotel tired but very happy.
Day 14 Goodbye to the Ocean and we head east to the mountains
We awoke at 04.00am so we could catch the 05.50 sailing back to Anacortes. The ferry was not that busy and we docked on time at 07.15 and set off on US20 to drive to Spokane, via North Cascades NP.
We got to the Newhalem visitors centre just as they opened at 9am, and unlike our previous visit, although it was cloudy, we could actually see something as we drove through the park.
We stopped at various sites, including Gorge Creek Falls, Diablo Lake, and Washington Pass (5477 feet) as the weather alternated between sun and showers.
We then dropped down, passed through Winthrop, which has a very western film set feeling to its architecture, rather than say that of Jackson, WY. Trying too hard to look like a cowboy town, even down to the gas station.
We then joined the 215 and 155 through Omak and the Colville Indian Reservation until we reached Grand Coulee Dam. It is a very impressive piece of civil engineering, but like the Three gorges on the Yangtze, is not very photogenic.
We then joined the US2 to Spokane, and the scenery changed from open range with sage bush and scrub to large expanses of agriculture. We eventually reached our hotel, after a drive in heavy rain on I-90 at 3pm, after 8 hours of driving plus ferry crossing.
Day 15 A long day drive through rainy Idaho to cold Montana
We checked out around 07.30am and hit the I-90 for a short 10 mile stretch to join the US95, just west of Coeur d’Alene and then headed south.
We eventually arrived at Moscow, and negotiated the thronging streets for the Saturday farmers market, well a few pedestrians thronging maybe. It had probably only just opened and looked to have plenty of fresh produce to buy although today we were on a tight schedule, over 500 miles, so no loitering allowed!
We continued along the 95, until we reached Lewiston, on the confluence of the Snake and Clearwater Rivers, and stopped at an overlook for a couple of pictures before descending to the US12, which is known as the Northwest Passage Scenic Byway, part of the Lewis and Clark NHT.
It starts with signs which say winding road ‘next 99 miles’ and it is not joking! But, it is extremely scenic as it runs alongside the Clearwater River and ascends from a wide open canyon to narrow forested mountain canyons very popular with weekend white water rafting trips as far as we could tell.
It was even magnificent in driving rain, so wet that the rafters were probably drier in the river than on the banks! Not good for hikes or photography but we did get a couple of snaps between downpours. The road has a 55mph limit and was heavily policed in the congested area around the rapids. We saw three drivers pulled over and another cruiser on the prowl. Compared to previous trips, we had seen far more active enforcement of speed limits on this one in all the States that we had visited and we wondered if it was linked to poor safety records or pressure on local budgets?
As we climbed up to Lolo pass, elevation 5,235 ft, the rain turned to sleet, then we entered Montana, lost an hour and gained some sunshine.
We continued on the US12 until Missoula, then joined the I-90 again until we reached Drummond, and turned south onto Mt1, or the Pintler Veterans’ Memorial Scenic Highway.
This forms a 64 mile ‘L’ shaped divert off the I-90, rejoining at Anaconda, and gives some great views of the mountains, with a final climb up to Georgetown Lake, before the longest length of 35/25mph speed limit I can remember anywhere in rural USA around Anaconda.
We rejoined the I-90, then onto the I-15 and drove south to Dillon for our overnight, to explore the region northwest of Yellowstone the next day. If Idaho was wet, Montana was cold, with snow flurries and a sharp chill wind. The local forecast was for snow next day and a quick check of the Montana roads info website confirmed that NPS had closed Beartooth Highway at the Wyoming border.
Day 16 A change of plan and an extra day in slightly snowy Yellowstone
Originally we had planned to drive to Laurel in Montana today, to allow us to enter Yellowstone by the northeast entrance tomorrow and finally drive all the Beartooth Highway in one go. The closure led to a rethink over breakfast, and we cancelled the night in Laurel and added another night to our Gardiner reservation.
NPS info on the Beartooth in real-time is pretty poor on-line, but the info on the Montana roads site had not changed and the weather was worse for today in that area, so we decided there was no point going to Laurel and having to wait around or come another way in anyway.
So, we had a later start, and took the 41 out of Dillon towards Twin Bridges, seeing lots of raptors looking for their breakfasts in the sage grass and verges. We then joined the Mt 287 with a short stop at Nevada City ghost town; well sort of a still lived in ghost town, with a tourist train which today was not running.
Then through Virginia City, which appears to have held onto its western look by maintaining its old buildings (rather than building fake new ones) and looks much more authentic for it, than some others (I MrSlotNoodles’s HO).
The weather was a mixture of wind, sleet and light snow showers and at Ennis we joined US287, and headed south towards the Madison River Earthquake Area and visitors centre, near to Quake Lake and Hebgen Lake.
On August 17th 1959, a 7.5 Richter scale quake caused the mountain side to slip, blocking the Madison River with 80 million tons of rock, and killing 28 people, many just sleeping in the camp grounds. You can still see the scar on the mountainside and the lake created by the blockage.
We then headed into West Yellowstone, had lunch at Bullwinkle’s Bar, and then checked on the Beartooth. Closed until Monday ‘sometime‘, so the decision looked a good one and with an improving weather forecast we will drive it both ways later in the week.
We then drove into the park in snow/sleet flurries, saw a few baby Wapitis alongside the Madison River, the usual Bison alongside the roads, lots of wet tourists and steaming thermal features and a great view of an Osprey along the Yellowstone River, just south of Mammoth as we approached Gardiner.
The wildlife highlight of the trip starts here!
Day 17 Birds……………oh, and the usual few bears
We woke a little later and decided to take the hotel complimentary breakfast rather than an early start in the park. We recalled it was not that good, and unfortunately our memories did not deceive us, but suitably calorie laden for a day of wildlife spotting we set off about 7.30am.
Today’s wildlife highlights…
Golden Eagle
Black bear with her two cubs…
A bit of scenery…
We have another three days in Yellowstone before we start to head south to Las Vegas… I’ll do one final progress update (probably on Saturday).